WRAPPING UP

WOW, THIS WHOLE WHIRLWIND OF AN ADVENTURE IS OVER! HARD (OK, IMPOSSIBLE) TO BELIEVE! GOING TO INDIA WAS ONE OF THE BEST EXPERIENCES OF MY LIFE, AND I AM GLAD EVERYDAY THAT I CHOSE TO GO. THANKS AGAIN TO ALL THOSE WHO ENCOURAGED ME TO SEIZE THIS AMAZING OPPORTUNITY. I DON'T KNOW HOW TO BEGIN TO DESCRIBE HOW I FEEL ABOUT THE TRIP OR WHAT I'VE LEARNED - BOTH ABOUT LIFE AND MYSELF. TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT TO WRITE IN THIS FINAL BLOG HAS BEEN A CHALLENGE, BUT I CAME ACROSS A SONG...A SONG THAT MADE ME THINK "THAT'S IT! THAT'S INDIA FOR ME!" I'VE INCLUDED A LINK TO THE SONG/VIDEO (ON YOUTUBE). THE WORDS ARE FAIRLY EASY TO HEAR - BUT THE VIDEO ALSO DISPLAYS THEM. MY FAVORITE LINES - THAT I FEEL LIKE I COULD HAVE WRITTEN MYSELF DURING MY TRIP ARE:

"YOU SHOULD HAVE SEEN THAT SUNRISE, WITH YOUR OWN EYES. IT BROUGHT ME BACK TO LIFE."
AND
"OH, TODAY, I FINALLY OVERCAME TRYIN' TO FIT THE WORLD INSIDE A PICTURE FRAME."

THANKS FOR FOLLOWING ALONG ON THIS WILD RIDE WITH ME! UNTIL NEXT TIME...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP5gWbyuXrs&feature=related

Leh, India - Day 3

ON OUR THIRD DAY IN LEH, WE TOOK A JEEP RIDE ALONG THE HIGHEST MOTORABLE ROAD IN THE WORLD - KHARDUNGLA PASS. AT THE HIGHEST POINT, THE ELEVATION IS 5600 METERS! THE RIDE WAS...WELL...NERVE-RACKING TO SAY THE LEAST! (DO LOOSE ROCKS MAKE ANYONE ELSE NERVOUS?) THE ROAD WE WERE ON SEEMED VERY, VERY NARROW, AND THE DRIVER SEEMED TO DRIVE A BIT TOO CLOSE TO THE EDGE FOR MY TASTES - BUT I HAVE TO ADMIT HE WAS A GREAT DRIVER! HE KNEW JUST HOW TO MANEUVER ALL THE TIGHT SPOTS, AND OUR JEEP NEVER ONCE GOT STUCK OR FELL OFF A CLIFF! SERIOUSLY THOUGH, OUR DRIVER EVEN PAID ATTENTION TO WHAT WE WERE SNAPPING PICS. OF ON THE WAY UP (MOSTLY THE AMAZING SNOWY PEAKS AND THE VARIOUS MOUNTAIN ANIMALS), AND HE MADE A POINT TO SLOW DOWN AT GREAT SPOTS AND POINT OUT ANIMALS WE MIGHT HAVE OTHERWISED MISSED. HE WOULD EVEN TELL US THEIR NAMES IN THE LOCAL LANGUAGE - ALTHOUGH YOU WILL HAVE TO ASK HANK WHAT WE SAW - HE IS MUCH BETTER WITH FOREIGN WORDS THAN I AM! WE MADE IT UP SAFE, AND FOR THE LAST 20 MINUTES OF THE DRIVE (ABOUT A 2 HR. TRIP UP IN ALL) WE GOT TO SEE SNOW ON THE MOUNTAINS AROUND US. THE DRIVER SAID IT WAS FRESH - IT HAD JUST FALLEN THE DAY BEFORE.

OUR DRIVER HAD STOPPED ONCE ON THE WAY UP, TO LET US GET SOME PICS. AND TAKE A BREAK FROM THE QUICK ALTITUDE CHANGE. THEN, RIGHT BACK INTO THE JEEP FOR MORE TWISTS AND TURNS. WHEN WE GOT TO THE TOP OF THE PASS AND WERE ABLE TO GET OUT AND WALK AROUND - AT THE HIGHEST POINT - IT WAS AMAZING! BEAUTIFUL VIEWS AND THE BEST PART - IT WAS ACTUALLY SNOWING SOFTLY! FROM HEAT EXHAUSTION IN AGRA TO LIGHT SNOWFALL IN LEH! WOW!

AFTER SPENDING ABOUT 15 MINUTES WALKING AROUND AND TAKING PICTURES, WE HAD TO GET BACK INTO THE JEEP -- IT WAS FREEZING!!! WE MADE OUR DESCENT (ANOTHER 2 HRS. - WELL, ACTUALLY LONGER, BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO KEEP STOPPING AND "GIVING WAY" TO THOSE VEHICLES COMING UP THE MOUNTAIN) AND THEN WE WENT BACK TO THE HOTEL FOR LUNCH. THAT AFTERNOON OUR DRIVER TOOK US TO A FEW OF THE MORE LOCAL (IN TOWN) SIGHTS. WE HAD A GREAT LAST FULL DAY IN LEH, AND WE WERE REALLY SAD GOING TO BED THAT NIGHT - KNOWING THAT OUR TRIP TO LEH (AND INDIA) WAS COMING TO AN END ALREADY.

WE TOOK A TON OF PICTURES THAT LAST DAY IN LEH. HERE'S THE LINK TO THE WEB-ALBUM: http://picasaweb.google.com/April.Gay/LehFinalDay

Leh, India - Day 2

ON OUR SECOND DAY IN LEH, WE DECIDED TO TAKE THE HOTEL'S TOUR OF THE LOCAL BUDDHIST MONASTERIES. I'D HEARD FROM MY BOSS THAT THE MONASTERIES WERE REALLY AMAZING - BESIDES THE MONKS EVERYWHERE, WHO WOULD TALK TO YOU ABOUT THE PLACE, THERE WAS SUPPOSED TO BE BEAUTIFUL ARTWORK ON EVERY WALL! WE SET OUT EARLY IN THE MORNING IN ORDER TO ARRIVE AT THE FIRST MONASTERY - THIKSEY - IN TIME FOR THE 7AM PUJA (PRAYER). WE WERE TOLD THAT PUJA WAS REALLY QUITE A SIGHT! ALL THE MONKS IN THE MONASTERY GATHER IN ONE AREA TO CHANT, SING, AND RECITE PRAYERS. WE WERE SUPER EXCITED TO SEE THIS AMAZING DISPLAY OF REVERENCE. UNFORTUNATELY, WHEN WE GOT TO THIKSEY AT 6:30AM, WE WERE TOLD THAT THERE WOULD BE NO PUJA THIS MORNING - THE MAJORITY OF THE MONKS WERE VISITING ANOTHER MONASTERY. BUMMER. ON TOP OF THAT, SINCE WE WERE THERE AT SUCH AN UNGODLY HOUR, A LOT OF THE MONASTERY WAS NOT OPEN TO VISITORS YET (OPENED AT 8AM). UGH! LUCKILY, THE ARTWORK ON THE WALLS WAS AS AMAZING AS PEOPLE CLAIMED, AND WE WERE ABLE TO WALK AROUND THE CENTER PLAZA AREA TAKING PICTURES AND ENJOYING THE PEACEFUL MORNING.

THEN, WE BEGAN TO HEAR SOME CHANTING AFTER ALL! WE FOLLOWED SOME OTHER VISITORS UP A SMALL PATHWAY AND FOUND A MONK PERFORMING HIS MORNING PRAYERS. ALTHOUGH IT WASN'T THE LARGE GROUP OF MONKS WE HAD HOPED FOR, IT WAS AMAZING TO WATCH NONETHELESS. THE MONK WAS USING A PRAYER BOOK TO GUIDE HIM, BEATING A DRUM, AND SINGING/CHANTING IN THIS TINY, DARK ROOM. PEOPLE WERE SNAPPING PICTURES AND I WAS ACTUALLY ABLE TO GET A SHORT VIDEO OF HIS PRAYERS. IT WAS TRULY SOMETHING I WILL NEVER FORGET!


AFTER WE'D WATCHED THIS PRAYER FOR A WHILE, WE WENT BACK TO THE PLAZA TO PASS THE TIME UNTIL THE OTHER PARTS OF THE MONASTERY OPENED. THE MONKS WHO WERE THERE BEGAN TO TAKE PITY ON US AND OPEN SOME OF THE LOCKED DOORS. WE WERE ABLE TO GO INTO SOME OF THE MOST ORNATE ROOMS (TEMPLES AS THEY CALLED THEM) THAT I HAVE EVER SEEN. THIKSEY IS MOST FAMOUS FOR ITS TWO STORY BUDDHA STATUE. WHEN THE DOOR TO THE BUILDING HOUSING THAT STATUE WAS UNLOCKED WE WENT IN AND SAW NOT ONLY THE BUDDHA BUT ALSO A MONK PREPARING THE OFFERINGS AROUND THE STATUE - BOWLS OF HOLY WATER, BURNING CANDLES, ETC. IT WAS REALLY AWESOME TO WITNESS. WE GOT SOME GREAT PICTURES OF THE BUDDHA AND THE MONK!

AFTER EXPLORING THIKSEY, WE WENT TO HEMIS MONASTERY. THIS MONASTERY IS THE LARGEST IN LEH, BUT DUE TO SOME CONSTRUCTION WE WERE ONLY ABLE TO GET INTO PARTS OF IT. HEMIS DID HAVE A MUSEUM THAT HANK ENJOYED QUITE A BIT, AND THIS IS WHERE I LEARNED A LESSON ABOUT ONE WAY MY HUSBAND AND I ARE DIFFERENT. THE WHOLE TIME WE WERE IN THE MUSEUM, HANK TRIED TO "TEACH" ME THINGS - UGH! NOW, HE DIDN'T MEAN TO, (AND HE DOESN'T EVEN SEE IT AS TEACHING), BUT HE LIKES TO TALK ABOUT EVERY COOL THING HE SEES. "WOW, THIS IS FROM 1200A.D." "DID YOU SEE THAT BIG SCROLL OVER THERE?" ETC. I LIKE TO LOOK AND TAKE IT ALL IN - QUIETLY. BECAUSE OF THIS DIFFERENCE, OUR MUSEUM TRIP INCLUDED A LOT OF TERSE STATEMENTS LIKE "YES, I SAW IT! I AM RIGHT HERE BESIDE YOU!" LUCKILY WE LAUGHED ABOUT OUR DIFFERENT STYLES, AND HE AGREED TO PIPE-DOWN A BIT.

PERHAPS THE SINGLE BEST THING ABOUT DAY 2 IN LEH WAS THE FACT THAT IT WAS THE DALI LAMA'S BIRTHDAY! THAT'S RIGHT - THE DALI LAMA! THERE WAS A CELEBRATION FOR HIS BIRTHDAY NEARBY, SINCE THE DALI LAMA HAS A RESIDENCE IN LEH, AND OUR HOTEL MANAGER HAD ARRANGED FOR THE DRIVER TO TAKE US THERE. WELL, ON THE WAY TO THE CELEBRATION - WE HAD AN ACCIDENT. THAT'S RIGHT, YOURS TRULY WAS IN ANOTHER CAR ACCIDENT! WELL, THIS TIME, I WAS IN THE LARGER VEHICLE - A VAN - WHEN WE HIT A MOTORCYCLE! I WAS PETRIFIED! I THOUGHT WE'D KILLED THE KID FOR SURE. (I SAY KID BECAUSE THE LITTLE GUY COULDN'T HAVE BEEN OVER 17!) WE CREAMED HIM WHILE HE WAS MAKING A U-TURN OR SOMETHING. I DON'T KNOW - ALL I KNOW IS THAT HE WAS OK AND OUR DRIVER BASICALLY TOOK HIM HOSTAGE, AND MADE HIM COME TO THE REPAIR SHOP WITH US TO HAVE THE VAN'S SIDE REPAIRED. IT WAS SHOCKING TO HIT SOMEONE AND HAVE NO COPS OR MEDICAL AID COME, BUT I HAD TO REMEMBER THAT NOT ALL COUNTRIES DO THINGS LIKE THE U.S.

WHEN WE FINALLY GOT TO THE DALI LAMA'S BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION, IT WAS AWESOME! THERE WERE HUNDREDS OF TENTS SET UP, WITH PEOPLE RELAXING WITH THEIR FAMILIES AND FRIENDS, COOKING OUT, BASICALLY JUST ENJOYING THE BEAUTIFUL WEATHER, AND HONORING HIS HOLINESS. IF I HAD TO RELATE IT TO SOMETHING, I WOULD SAY IT WAS LIKE A BIG CARNIVAL OR FAIR - ICE CREAM CARTS, BALLOONS, DECORATIONS - BUT WITH A BIG HEAPING OF REVERENCE AND RESPECT THROWN IN THE MIX. (I.E. BOWING AT THE DALI LAMA'S PICTURE IN HIS HOUSE, REMOVING SHOES, ETC.) WE WANTED TO STAY AT THIS CELEBRATION LONGER BECAUSE IT WAS SO RELAXING, BUT WE'D TOLD THE DRIVER WE ONLY NEEDED 1/2 HR. SO WE HAD TO LEAVE AND HEAD BACK TO THE CAR. AFTER ALL THAT EXPLORING, WE WERE READY TO HEAD BACK TO THE HOTEL FOR LUNCH. YES, WE DID ALL THAT BEFORE LUNCH! (ALTHOUGH, I WILL ADD THAT THEY DO EAT LUNCH LATER IN INDIA - AROUND 2PM.) WE WERE SUPPOSED TO GO OUT AGAIN AFTER A FEW HRS. REST, BUT HANK AND I AGREED THAT WE WERE POOPED, AND WOULD PREFER TO STAY AROUND THE HOTEL THE REST OF THE DAY. BESIDES, WE WERE ONLY A COUPLE MINUTES WALK FROM THE MAIN MARKET, AND THERE WAS TONS TO SEE THERE. HANK GOT THE HOTEL MANAGER TO CANCEL THE CAR FOR THAT AFTERNOON AND WE RELAXED FOR THE REST OF THE DAY.

FOR PICTURES OF OUR MONASTERY ADVENTURES, GO TO: http://picasaweb.google.com/April.Gay/IndiaLehMonestariesTour

BONUS VIDEO: HERE IS A FUN LITTLE CLIP I TOOK OF HANK TURNING THE PRAYER WHEELS AT THIKSEY:

Leh, India - Day 1

AFTER FINISHING MY INTERNSHIP ON THE 4TH OF JULY - A FRIDAY - HANK AND I SET OUT FOR THE AIRPORT ON SATURDAY MORNING. AFTER HAVING OUR BAGS X-RAYED AND SEALED (WITH ZIP TIES), WE WERE OFF. THE PLANE RIDE WAS GREAT! SINCE WE'D BOOKED THE TICKETS ONLY A WEEK BEFORE THE TRIP, WE HAD TO BOOK THE TOP CLASS. UNLIKE IN THE U.S. THIS DIDN'T BREAK THE BANK (LUCKILY) AND THE PERKS ON THE PLANE WERE AMAZING - BREAKFAST SMOOTHIES, MENUS FOR MADE-TO-ORDER BREAKFASTS, OUTSTANDING SERVICE, ETC.

SADLY, THE FLIGHT WAS A SHORT, 55-MINS. (SINCE WE NEVER GET TO FLY FIRST CLASS, WE WERE BUMMED THAT THIS PLANE RIDE DIDN'T LAST A BIT LONGER!) THE PEOPLE AT MY OFFICE WERE RIGHT, IT ISN'T 10 MINUTES AFTER TAKE OFF WHEN YOU BEGIN TO SEE THE HIMALAYAS. IT WAS ABSOLUTELY AMAZING! THE VIEWS FROM THE AIR, DURING SUNRISE, WERE INDESCRIBABLE, AND I FEEL BLESSED TO HAVE BEEN ABLE TO VIEW SUCH A PRESTINE ENVIRONMENT. WE WERE ABLE TO SNAP PICTURES ON THE FLIGHT TO LEH - NOT ALLOWED ON THE FLIGHT OUT OF LEH, BECAUSE LEH IS IN AN "UNSTABLE REGION" (KASHMIR) SO NO HAND-BAGGAGE IS ALLOWED IN THE CABIN. THE PICS. TURNED OUT REALLY WELL, AND THEY GIVE A NEAT PERSPECTIVE OF THE MOUNTAINS. OUR PILOT (A WOMAN, I MIGHT ADD) EXECUTED A PERFECT LANDING - DODGING MOUNTAINS ALL THE WHILE - AND RECEIVED THUNDERING APPLAUSE FROM THE PASSENGERS (I GUESS THEY'D HEARD THAT LANDINGS AREN'T ALWAYS THAT SMOOTH!).

HERE IS A VIDEO OF OUR AIRPLANE LANDING (MOUNTAIN DODGING, AS I LIKE TO CALL IT). I WAS ABLE TO CAPTURE THIS WITH OUR LITTLE POINT AND SHOOT DIGITAL CAMERA - THAT CAMERA ROCKS!

WHEN WE STEPPED OFF THE PLANE...WOW, I CAN'T EVEN PUT IT INTO WORDS. THE LEH AIRPORT FELT LIKE ONE LITTLE LANDING STRIP SMACK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE LARGEST MOUNTAINS YOU'VE EVER SEEN! THERE WERE MOUNTAINS ON EVERY SIDE, AND THE AIR WAS A COOL 65 DEGREES OR SO (A VERY PLEASANT CHANGE FROM DELHI'S SWELTERING HEAT!). WE FOUND OUR BAGS, FILLED OUT SOME PAPERWORK TO ENTER LEH, AND FOUND OUR TAXI DRIVER (SENT BY OUR HOTEL). DURING THE RIDE TO THE HOTEL, I KEPT GRABBING HANK'S ARM AND YELLING "LOOK AT THAT! ISN'T THAT BEAUTIFUL? HAVE YOU EVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE IT?" HE KEPT ASSURING ME HE HADN'T AND WE KNEW WITH 100% CERTAINTY THAT WE HAD CHOSEN THE RIGHT CITY TO END OUR INDIA TRIP. WE ARRIVED AT THE HOTEL AND WERE IMMEDIATELY TAKEN TO THE GARDEN AREA, ASKED TO SIT DOWN, AND BROUGHT HOT TEA, CRACKERS, AND COOKIES. WE WERE TOLD TO RELAX, THAT THE AIR WAS THIN AND WE NEEDED TO TAKE IT EASY THAT FIRST DAY. (ALTHOUGH WE ARRIVED AROUND 9AM - WE KNEW THAT THIS ENTIRE DAY WAS TO BE SPENT ACCLIMATIZING - A WASTED DAY, BUT WE WEREN'T COMPLAINING - WE PREFERRED NOT TO DIE FROM LACK OF OXYGEN!)

WE SPENT MOST OF THE DAY SLEEPING, ONLY COMING DOWN TO THE DINING ROOM FOR MEALS. SINCE WE HADN'T GOT MUCH SLEEP THE NIGHT BEFORE OUR TRIP, IT WAS ACTUALLY NICE TO BE "EXPECTED" TO WASTE THE ENTIRE DAY RELAXING! BY 4PM, WE WERE TOLD WE COULD EXPLORE THE LOCAL MARKET FOR A BIT IF WE FELT UP TO IT (A 2 MINUTE WALK FROM THE HOTEL AND AT THE SAME ELEVATION). WE DECIDED TO TRY IT OUT, AND WHEW, THE SLIGHT HILLS OF THE ROADS WERE LIKE CLIMBING EVEREST! MY HEART WAS RACING AND IT WAS HARD TO BREATH - THE FIRST TIME I'D EXPERIENCED PROBLEMS FROM THE THIN AIR SINCE LANDING IN LEH. (I NOW HAVE A NEW RESPECT FOR 90 YEAR OLDS WHO GET WINDED JUST TRYING TO GET UP THE 2 OR 3 STEPS TO REACH THEIR FRONT DOOR!) WE TOOK IT SLOW, AND WERE ABLE TO CHECK OUT A FEW SHOPS. WE TOOK TONS OF PICS. THAT FIRST DAY BECAUSE WE WERE AMAZED BY EVERY BEAUTIFUL THING WE LAID EYES ON! LEH HAS A LOT OF GREAT BUILDINGS AND SITES, BUT THEY ARE EVEN MORE AMAZING BECAUSE THEY ARE ALL SET AGAINST A HIMALAYAN BACKDROP. CAN'T BEAT THAT WITH A STICK!

THIS IS THE LINK TO THE PICS. FROM OUR FIRST DAY IN LEH: http://picasaweb.google.com/April.Gay/IndiaLeh. SINCE THERE ARE SO MANY PICS., AND EACH OF OUR DAYS IN LEH WAS VERY DIFFERENT FROM THE OTHERS, I WILL BE BLOGGING ABOUT THE OTHER DAYS SEPARATELY.

BEYOND DELHI - FINALLY!

I'VE FINALLY GOTTEN A CHANCE TO BLOG ABOUT OUR TRAVELS SINCE HANK ARRIVED. AFTER PICKING HIM UP AT THE AIRPORT LATE SATURDAY NIGHT AND GIVING HIM A FEW HOURS TO SLEEP OFF THE JET-LAG (YES, I KNOW THAT IS NOT NEARLY ENOUGH TIME!) WE SET OUT TO VISIT AKSHARDHAM TEMPLE. AKSHARDHAM IS A NEW TEMPLE IN DELHI - 2005 - AND IT HAS BEEN RAVED ABOUT BY MY MOTHER-IN-LAW (WELL, BY ONE OF HER CO-WORKERS) EVER SINCE WE BEGAN PLANNING OUR TRIP TO INDIA! IT WAS DEFINITELY AMAZING, AND VERY, VERY INTRICATE. MY FAVORITE PART WAS THE WRAP-AROUND ELEPHANT CARVING WHICH SURROUNDED THE ENTIRE OUTER BASE OF THE TEMPLE. UNFORTUNATELY, THEY DO NOT ALLOW CAMERAS! THE BEST I COULD DO IS INCLUDE A PICTURE I GOT FROM THE INTERNET - BUT AT LEAST IT WILL GIVE YOU AN IDEA OF THE PLACE.


AFTER VISITING THE TEMPLE ON SUNDAY AFTERNOON, I WAS SHOCKED TO SEE SOMETHING I HAD NOT YET FACED IN INDIA -- SOMETHING I HAD MANAGED TO AVOID FOR 5 LONG WEEKS -- SUNBURN! I WAS FRIED! I DIDN'T EXPECT IT TO BE AS HOT AS IT WAS, AND I THOUGHT AFTER BEING HERE FIVE WEEKS, THAT I'D BUILT UP SOME BIT OF TOLERANCE TO THE SUN - WRONG! WE TOOK A HILARIOUS PIC. OF MY BURNT, SAD FACE - BUT I LEFT THE CAMERA AT THE APARTMENT, SO I CAN'T INSERT IT HERE. IT'S A SHAME TOO - HANK SAID THE PICTURE WAS THE SADDEST FACE HE'D EVER SEEN - PERFECTLY CAPTURING MY FEELING ABOUT THE BURN.

ON MONDAY, WE WERE OFF TO AGRA - THE CITY OF THE TAJ MAHAL. MY FIRM HAD HELPED ME BOOK TRAIN TICKETS, AND WE WERE PLEASANTLY SURPRISED WITH THE QUALITY OF THE TRAIN. (APPROXIMATELY $20 ROUND-TRIP PER PERSON - A.C. TRAIN CARS AND THE PRICE INCLUDED BREAKFAST, DINNER, A COUPLE CUPS OF HOT TEA, AND BOTTLED WATER FOR EACH OF US.) WHEN WE GOT TO AGRA WE WENT STRAIGHT FOR THE PRE-PAY TAXI BOOTH (A MUST FOR VISITORS, AS IT IS RUN BY THE GOVERNMENT, AND YOU ARE BEING ACCOSTED FROM THE MOMENT YOU EXIT THE TRAIN DOOR!). A MAN WAS MORE THAN WILLING TO HELP US GET A RICKSHAW TICKET FOR A RIDE TO THE TAJ MAHAL -- 50 RUPEES (ABOUT $1.20) -- AND THEN PUT US IN HIS RICKSHAW. I THOUGHT THIS WAS GOOD SERVICE -- WHEN, ONLY ABOUT 100 METERS DOWN THE ROAD HE PULLED THE RICKSHAW OVER AND GAVE US A MAP, A COMMENTS BOOK, AND A SPEECH ABOUT HOW FOR 600 RUPEES HE WOULD BE OUR GUIDE ALL DAY -- SHOWING US 5 TO 6 SITES, TAKING US TO A SAFE RESTAURANT FOR LUNCH, ETC. ALTHOUGH I WAS TAKEN ABACK BY THE BAIT-AND-SWITCH, $30 WAS NOT BAD, THE COMMENT BOOK WAS FULL OF "ALI WAS THE GREATEST! SHOWED US MORE THINGS THAN WE EVER WOULD HAVE FOUND ON OUR OWN!" TYPE COMMENTS, AND WE WERE ALREADY IN HIS RICKSHAW, SO WE AGREED. WELL, HE DID LIVE UP TO HIS PART OF THE DEAL (MOSTLY)- WE GOT TO SEE ALL THE MAJOR LANDMARKS IN AGRA - HE TOOK SHORT-CUTS BETWEEN THEM - AND HE TOOK US TO A VERY NICE HOTEL RESTAURANT FOR LUNCH (WHERE MANY OTHER WESTERNERS WERE DINING.) THERE WAS ONLY A BIT OF A PROBLEM WHEN WE WANTED TO END OUR "TOUR" EARLY -- AFTER SEEING ALL THE SITES, WE WANTED TO SKIP THE MARKETS (I.E. THE PLACES WERE HE GETS COMMISSION FOR BRINGING WESTERNERS!). I WAS FEELING REALLY ILL FROM ALL THE SUN - I MEAN, REALLY ILL -- AND ALL I WANTED TO DO WAS GET BACK TO THE TRAIN STATION AND WAIT ON THE TRAIN. I DID NOT CARE THAT WE WERE 2 1/2 HRS. EARLY -- I WANTED TO GO TO THE TRAIN STATION. WELL, WE HUMORED THE DRIVER BY GOING TO ONE MARKET - A CARPET MAKING PLACE (IT WAS ACTUALLY AMAZING SEEING THEM MAKE SUCH BEAUTIFUL DESIGNS - BY HAND!) - BUT AFTER THAT - I WAS READY TO GO! WELL, OUR GUIDE WAS NOT HAPPY. HIS FRIENDLY SMILE IMMEDIATELY TURNED INTO A VERY UNFRIENDLY FROWN, AND I WAS NERVOUS! HOWEVER - I WAS NOT ABOUT TO BACK DOWN! HE TRIED TO PUSH US ON THE IDEA OF THE MARKETS - SAYING "THEY ARE INSIDE, NO MORE SUN." AND "BEAUTIFUL THINGS." I TOOK CHARGE AND JUST SAID "WE WOULD LIKE TO GO STRAIGHT TO THE TRAIN STATION, NOW PLEASE. WE DO NOT WANT TO SEE ANYTHING ELSE. WE ARE VERY TIRED. WE ARE STILL GOING TO PAY YOU THE FULL AMOUNT - 600 RUPEES - IF YOU TAKE US BACK NOW." AFTER SEVERAL BACK AND FORTH EXCHANGES, HE GRUMBLED TO HIMSELF IN HINDI AND FINALLY TOOK US TO THE TRAIN STATION (THANKFULLY!). AGRA WAS A HARD TRIP - BETWEEN THE ARGUING WITH THE DRIVER AND THE HEAT EXHAUSTION - WHICH I NOW KNOW I HAD AS I WAS SICK FOR DAYS AFTERWARDS! (THANK GOD I DID NOT LET THAT DRIVER PUSH US ANY FARTHER IN THE JOURNEY -- I MIGHT HAVE ACTUALLY DIED!) IT WAS TOUGH - BUT IT WAS GREAT TO GET TO SEE THE TAJ MAHAL AND OTHER LANDMARKS. HERE ARE A FEW OF THE BEST PICS.
CLASSIC TAJ MAHAL PIC:
(YES, THE PICS. YOU ALWAYS SEE ARE EXACTLY WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE!)

HERE IS A SHOT OF ONE OF THE SIDES OF THE TAJ UP CLOSE:

AWESOME LAWNMOWER AT THE TAJ!:
(DON'T WORRY DADS - WE ARE GETTING ONE FOR EACH OF YOU NEXT FATHER'S DAY!)

AGRA FORT:
(NEAT, AS FAR AS FORTS GO - BUT I WAS TOO SICK FROM THE HEAT TO CARE AT THIS POINT.)

HANK REALLY LOVED THE FORT THOUGH:
(I GUESS I WAS RIGHT - FORTS ARE FOR BOYS!)

AFTER TAKING THE TRAIN BACK TO DELHI, WE GOT A FEW HOURS SLEEP THAT NIGHT (A VERY FEW) AND WERE UP AGAIN AT 5AM TO GET READY FOR ANOTHER LONG DAY-TRIP - THIS TIME TO RISHIKESH. RISHIKESH IS A CITY WHERE YOU CAN VISIT THE HOLY GANGA (THE GANGES RIVER) AND IT IS ACTUALLY WHERE THE RIVER IS THE CLEANEST - AS IS HAS JUST RUN OUT OF THE HIMALAYAS. WE WERE TOLD THAT RISHIKESH WOULD BE GREEN AND LUSH, AND THAT WE SHOULD ENJOY IT, BECAUSE WE WOULD NOT SEE "GREENERY" IN LEH (LEH IS BARREN MOUNTAIN LAND - NOT A TREE FOR MILES!). WELL, THEY WERE RIGHT - IT WAS VERY GREEN, AND WE REALLY ENJOYED SEEING ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS IN INDIA - THE GANGES. (I'M GLAD WE DECIDED TO GO - EVEN AFTER THE HARD, HOT DAY IN AGRA - BUT WE SURE PAID FOR IT THE NEXT COUPLE DAYS WHEN WE WERE STILL VERY SICK FROM THE SUN OVER-EXPOSURE!) HERE ARE A FEW PICS. FROM OUR TRIP TO RISHIKESH:

FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE HIMALAYAN FOOTHILLS (ON THE RIDE TO RISHIKESH):

THE HOLY GANGES!!! IT WAS BEAUTIFUL!

LAKSHMAN JHULA BRIDGE (FAMOUS SUSPENSION BRIDGE OVER THE GANGES):

ONE OF THE MANY MONKEYS IN RISHIKESH:

(ACTUALLY THEY ARE ALL OVER INDIA)

YOU MIGHT BE THINKING "OH CUTE, THERE ARE MONKEYS THERE" - BUT NOT ME. I KEPT MY EYE ON EVERY MONKEY AROUND! WE'D BEEN WARNED THAT THEY ARE MEAN, AND CAN BITE OR JUMP ON YOU (FROM ABOVE) AT ANY MOMENT. IN FACT, ONE OF THE INTERNS ACROSS TOWN WAS BITTEN BY A BABY MONKEY WHILE VISITING A TEMPLE AND HAD TO GET MANY, MANY PAINFUL SHOTS IN THE PALM OF HER HAND. OUCH! I MADE SURE TO GIVE THEM WIDE BERTH AND NOT TO SMILE AT THEM! (APPARENTLY, THEY CAN GET "CRAZED" AT THE SIGHT OF TEETH -- DON'T ASK ME WHY.)

HERE ARE A COUPLE PICS. OF HANK AND ME DIPPING INTO THE GANGES

(OK, SO OUR "DIP" WAS ONLY OUR TOES - BUT WE CONTEND THAT IT STILL COUNTS):

ALTHOUGH WE ONLY HAD A FEW HOURS IN RISHIKESH, IT WAS MORE THAN ENOUGH TIME - WE WERE EXHAUSTED!!! WE COULDN'T WAIT TO GET HOME. WE WENT BACK TO THE TRAIN STATION EARLY, AND THE WAIT ON THE PLATFORM HAD TO BE THE LONGEST HOUR OF MY LIFE - BUT WE FINALLY MADE IT. WE HAD A LOT OF TROUBLE GETTING A RIDE FROM THE DELHI TRAIN STATION TO OUR APARTMENT -- A COUPLE OF JERK RICKSHAW DRIVERS WERE FOLLOWING US AROUND TELLING EACH DRIVER NOT TO TAKE US BECAUSE THERE WAS A RICKSHAW "STRIKE." (THERE WAS NO SUCH THING - THEY WERE JUST PLAYING GAMES WITH US BECAUSE WE WOULDN'T PAY THE REDICULOUS 350 RUPEES THEY REQUESTED. NOTE: WE PAID 40 TO GET TO THE STATION THAT MORNING. THESE GUYS WANTED 350!!!! BUTT-HEADS!) I ENDED UP GETTING REALLY SCARED AND FRUSTRATED AND WAS ALMOST IN TEARS WHEN A BICYCLE RICKSHAW OFFERED US A RIDE HOME. THERE YOU HAVE THE STORY OF HOW WE TRIED SOMETHING WE'D NEVER PLANNED TO TRY: A BICYCLE RICKSHAW. IT WAS NOT AS BAD AS I THOUGH -- ALTHOUGH IT WAS PAINFULLY SLOW. (I MEAN, HOW FAST CAN ONE LITTLE 5' TALL MAN PEDAL A BIKE WITH 2 ADULTS AND BAGGAGE ON THE BACK!) ANYWAY, WE FINALLY GOT HOME, AND FOR ONCE, I WAS LOOKING FORWARD TO GETTING BACK TO WORK! (AT LEAST THERE IS CONSTANT A.C. IN THE OFFICE AND I GET TO SIT DOWN ALL DAY -- NO WALKING/HIKING IN OUTRAGEOUS HEAT, GETTING HEAT STROKE!)

TOMORROW MORNING WE ARE FLYING OFF TO LEH. I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO THE TRIP AND HOPE THAT EVERYTHING GOES WELL DURING OUR 4 DAYS THERE. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED THAT WE ADJUST TO THE ALTITUDE QUICKLY, SO THAT WE CAN GET OUT AND SEE SOME OF THE MOUNTAINS AND BUDDIST MONESTARIES. I'M NOT SURE THAT THERE WILL BE ANY MORE BLOGS OR PICTURES UNTIL WE ARE BACK IN THE U.S. TODAY IS MY LAST DAY IN THE OFFICE (WHERE I USUALLY HAVE INTERNET) AND THE APARTMENT'S "SOMETIMES THERE" SIGNAL IS NOT STRONG ENOUGH TO BLOG OR UPLOAD PICS. I WILL BE SURE TO PUT UP SOME PICTURES OF LEH AFTER WE GET BACK. WE FLY BACK TO THE U.S. ON JULY 10TH. SEE YOU SOON!

THIS IS A TEST…THIS IS ONLY A TEST

THAT’S WHAT I KEEP TELLING MYSELF! THIS WEEK HAS BEEN QUITE EVENTFUL – STILL NO WORKING SHOWER (HAVING TO DART INTO OTHER ROOMS WHEN NO ONE’S IN THEM TO SHOWER – AND THAT ONLY WORKS SOMETIMES!), MY INDIAN CELL PHONE HAS BEEN CUT OFF (THE COMPANY IS TAKING THEIR SWEET TIME WITH RESTORING SERVICE), AND LAST NIGHT I HAD ABSOLUTELY NO INTERNET SIGNAL IN MY ROOM (SO WITH NO PHONE AND NO INTERNET THERE WAS NO TALKING TO HANKO ALL DAY!). BASICALLY, IT WAS JUST NO GOOD!

I HAVE BEEN WONDERING IF THIS IS SOME KIND OF TEST. I MEAN, THINGS ARE JUST ABOUT TO GET WAY BETTER – HANK WILL BE HERE IN A LITTLE UNDER 36HRS – BUT THINGS SEEM TO BE GETTING WORSE AND WORSE UNTIL THEN. WELL, I HAVE TO TAKE THAT BACK AND SAY THAT I AM IN NO WAY HAVING A BAD TIME. IN FACT, I’M ACTUALLY STILL REALLY LOVING IT HERE. JUST, THE HEADACHES AT MY APARTMENT ARE STARTING TO DRIVE ME NUTS! ON THE DAYS WHEN I CAN’T GET A SHOWER IN SOMEONE ELSE’S ROOM (WHICH IS AS GROSS AS IT SOUNDS BY THE WAY) – I HAVE BEEN HAVING TO MAKE DUE WITH THE FAUCET THAT IS UNDER MY SHOWER HEAD (ABOUT 1 ½ FEET OFF THE GROUND). NOW, I AM NOT AS FLEXIBLE AS I ONCE WAS (IN MY YOUNGER DAYS) SO WASHING MY NOW SUPER-LONG HAIR IS QUITE A CHALLENGE! I WAS SUPPOSED TO BE SHIFTING ROOMS LAST NIGHT – THAT’S WHAT I WAS TOLD YESTERDAY MORNING ANYWAY – BUT WHEN I CAME HOME FROM WORK, I WAS TOLD THAT ALL THE ROOMS WERE FULL. UGH! SINCE THEY WERE ALL OCCUPIED – NO WAY TO GET IN FOR A SHOWER – HELLO, MR. FAUCET!

ANYWAY, I AM SUPPOSED TO BE SHIFTING ROOMS WHEN I GET BACK TO THE APARTMENT TODAY, AND THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO MOVE THE MINI FRIDGE FROM MY CURRENT ROOM TO THE NEW ONE. LET’S PRAY THAT HAPPENS! MY CURRENT ROOM IS THE ONLY ONE WITH A FRIDGE AND BEING SO UNUSED TO THE HEAT HERE I KEEP A CONSTANT SUPPLY OF BOTTLED WATER IN THERE! ALSO, I REALLY NEED IT TO KEEP FOOD. SINCE I DON’T HAVE A KITCHEN, I ALREADY HAVE TO BUY MY MEALS FROM RESTAURANTS – WITHOUT A FRIDGE THAT WOULD MEAN SOMEHOW MANAGING TO GET FRESH TAKE OUT FOR EVERY MEAL! NOT ONLY WOULD THAT BE A SUPER HEADACHE – BUT IT WOULD BE OUTRAGEOUSLY COSTLY!

I AM GETTING READY TO GIVE A PRESENTATION AT WORK – ABOUT AN HOUR FROM NOW. THE PRESENTATION IS TO THE ENTIRE OFFICE (ABOUT 15 ATTORNEYS PLUS INTERNS) SO I’M HOPING IT GOES WELL. I’M DOING IT ON INCORPORATION OF BUSINESSES IN THE U.S., SO HOPEFULLY, WITH HAVING PICKED A U.S. TOPIC, THERE WON’T BE ANYONE SHOWING ME UP WITH HOW MUCH THEY KNOW (OR HOW INCORRECT THE INFO. I’M GIVING THEM ACTUALLY IS!). ONCE I FINISH THIS PRESENTATION, I FEEL LIKE THERE WILL BE A BIG SENSE OF RELIEF! I AM ONLY WORKING 3 DAYS NEXT WEEK – MY LAST WEEK – BECAUSE MY BOSS APPROVED 2 DAYS OFF FOR HANK AND ME TO TAKE DAY TRIPS. ONE DAY WE WILL BE GOING TO AGRA TO SEE THE TAJ MAHAL, AND THEN THE OTHER WE WILL BE SPENDING IN A CITY CALLED RISHIKESH VISITING THE GANGES RIVER (OR “THE HOLY GANGES” AS THEY CALL IT HERE). I AM SO EXCITED TO GET OUT AND SEE THESE MAJOR LANDMARKS, AND EVEN MORE EXCITED THAT HANK GETS TO SEE THEM WITH ME. SEEING THEM IN PICTURES IS JUST NOT THE SAME – ALTHOUGH…NEVER FEAR – FOR THOSE OF YOU NOT FLYING OVER WITH HANK, MANY PICTURES WILL BE TAKEN.

RUBBER NECKING – IT’S NOT JUST FOR ACCIDENTS ANYMORE!

THE TITLE OF THIS BLOG REFERS TO THE CONSTANT RUBBER-NECKING (TURNING YOUR HEAD TO STARE AS YOU DRIVE/WALK BY) THAT OCCURS WHENEVER I TRAVEL DOWN AN INDIAN ROAD. “IS IT STILL THAT BAD?” YOU MIGHT ASK. WELL, LET’S JUST SAY, WHEN I’M OUTSIDE I OFTEN THINK “MAN, I MUST HAVE FORGOTTEN TO COVER UP MY THIRD HEAD THIS MORNING!” ALTHOUGH YOU’D THINK I WOULD BE ALARMED BY BEING STARED AT LIKE A PORKCHOP, MY REAL WORRY IS THAT THE DUDE PASSING ME ON A MOTORCYCLE IS (1) GOING TO CRASH BECAUSE HE’S NOT LOOKING WHERE HE’S GOING, OR (2) GOING TO SNAP HIS NECK BECAUSE HE HAS TWISTED IT BEYOND THE NORMAL RANGE OF MOTION. NEITHER HAS HAPPENED YET – BUT THERE’S STILL TIME!

SO, YESTERDAY WHILE HAVING LUNCH WITH THE OTHERS IN THE OFFICE, ONE OF THE YOUNG FEMALE ATTORNEYS (PROBABLY MY BEST FRIEND IN THE OFFICE) ASKED ME “ARE YOU IN A ‘LOVE MARRIAGE’?” NOW, AFTER FIVE WEEKS IN INDIA, I KNOW WHAT A “LOVE MARRIAGE” IS (A MARRIAGE FOR LOVE RATHER THAN AN ARRANGED MARRIAGE) SO I WASN’T REALLY SHOCKED AT THE QUESTION, BUT I HAVE TO SAY THAT I WAS DEEPLY SADDENED. SHE WAS ASKING SO SINCERELY, AND FOR THOSE OF US WHO GROW UP THINKING THAT THERE IS NO OTHER KIND OF MARRIAGE – EVEN IF THE LOVE DOESN’T LAST, WE ALWAYS EXPECT IT TO BE THERE AT FIRST – IT WAS A STARK REALIZATION. I TOLD HER YES, THAT I WAS IN A “LOVE MARRIAGE,” AND AFTER WE TALKED A LITTLE, I ASKED IF THEY (THE 4 YOUNG FEMALES I WAS SITTING WITH) BEING HYPER-EDUCATED, AND ALREADY IN THE PROFESSIONAL WORLD MAKING THEIR OWN MONEY, WOULD STILL HAVE ARRANGED MARRIAGES. THEY SAID IT WOULD DEPEND – THAT DESPITE THE SYSTEM, THEY HAD RELATIVES IN “LOVE MARRIAGES,” BUT THAT YOU STILL ESSENTIALLY NEEDED TO FIND SOMEONE “SUITABLE” (I SUPPOSE BY YOUR PARENTS’ STANDARDS). ALTHOUGH I BELIEVE THERE ARE POSITIVES IN THE ARRANGED MARRIAGE SYSTEM – SOCIETAL STABILITY FOR EXAMPLE, LOWER RATES OF DIVORCE, ETC., I CAN’T HELP BUT FEEL A SENSE OF DESPAIR FOR THESE WOMEN. WHEN I THINK THAT I COULD HAVE BEEN MARRIED OFF TO A “SUITABLE FELLOW” YEARS AGO - MISSING OUT ON A LIFE WITH HANK, THE ONLY PERSON WHO REALLY EVER UNDERSTOOD ME COMPLETELY - I THANK GOD THAT FOR BETTER OR WORSE, “LOVE MARRIAGES” DO EXIST.

OK, ENOUGH MUSH - ON A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT NOTE: THE ONLY THING WORSE THAN BEING THE MOST HATED EMPLOYEE IN YOUR OFFICE IS BEING THE MOST LOVED. I KNOW YOU ARE READING THAT STATEMENT AND THINKING – “HAVE YOU BEEN SMOKING THE CRACK PIPE, APRIL?” BUT LET ME TELL YOU, BEING THE ONE EVERYONE DOTES ON (PERHAPS BECAUSE I’M A HARDWORKER – MORE LIKELY BECAUSE I’VE COME TO WORK HERE FROM SO FAR AWAY) IS REALLY HARD.

THE MOOD AT WORK HAS BEEN TENSE LATELY - TO SAY THE LEAST. THE ASSOCIATES (ATTORNEYS WHO ARE NOT PARTNERS) IN THE OFFICE, GOT “BLASTED” BY THE BOSS ABOUT A WEEK AGO. (“BLASTED” IS WHAT THEY CALL IT HERE – YELLING, THREATS TO FIRE, ETC.) THE BOSS HAD BEEN TRAVELING ON BUSINESS FOR OVER A WEEK AND WHEN SHE CAME BACK – WELL, LET’S JUST SAY HELL HATH NO FURY! THEN TODAY, THE OTHER FEMALE INTERN (AN INDIA NATIVE) WAS CALLED INTO THE BOSS'S OFFICE AS SOON AS SHE STROLLED INTO THE OFFICE – AROUND 10AM. APPARENTLY SHE WAS YELLED AT FOR COMING IN BETWEEN 9:30 AND 10 EACH DAY (THE OFFICE STARTS AT 9) AND TOLD SINCE SHE’D TAKEN IT UPON HERSELF TO SHORTEN THE LENGTH OF HER INTERNSHIP FROM 2 MONTHS TO 4 WEEKS – SHE WOULD ONLY BE WORKING AT THE FIRM FOR 3 WEEKS. (I.E. THAT SHE WOULD NOT BE NEEDED AFTER NEXT MONDAY. YIKES!) WELL THAT POOR GIRL CAME INTO THE CONFERENCE ROOM TO TELL ME ABOUT IT – FIGHTING BACK TEARS – ASKING WHY THE BOSS HAD TO TREAT HER LIKE THAT, AND I FELT SO BAD FOR HER. :(

ABOUT 45 MINS. LATER (AFTER THE OTHER INTERN HAD GONE TO ANOTHER PART OF THE OFFICE TO WORK) THE BOSS BURSTS IN MY DOOR AND SAYS “APRIL, COME TO MY OFFICE!” WELL, I WAS ALREADY STARTLED BY THE “BURSTING IN” BUT I WAS THINKING “OH BOY, THIS CAN'T BE GOOD.” WELL, TURNS OUT THE BOSS WAS SO EXCITED – SHE WANTED TO GIVE ME AN ART BOOK AND A DVD TO CHECK OUT BEFORE MY TRIP TO LEH WITH HANK. SHE KEPT GOING ON ABOUT THE BEAUTY OF LEH, AND HOW EXCITED SHE WAS THAT I WAS GOING THERE. WHEN I LEFT HER OFFICE I WAS CARRYING THIS HUGE ART BOOK – MAYBE 20”X20” AND A FEW PEOPLE SAW ME WITH IT. I FELT SO BAD. THAT FEELING LIKE, I DON’T WANT TO BE MOM’S FAVORITE CHILD, I JUST WANT HER TO BE NICE TO EVERYONE EQUALLY! I GUESS I SHOULD COUNT MY BLESSINGS, BUT I JUST HATE TO SEE OTHER PEOPLE SUFFER. (AND I KNOW IT IS SALT IN A WOUND TO SEE SOMEONE ELSE BEING CONSTANTLY DOTED ON!) I JUST HAVE TO HOPE THAT THEY WON’T THROW ME INTO A PIT AND THEN SELL ME TO PASSERS-BY – LIKE JOSEPH’S BROTHERS DID TO HIM IN THE BIBLE!